Review #36: Highland Park 21yr, OB, 47.5%

smokier!

This is the 21yr old, which doesn't appear on the great ladder of sherryvats from other day. It wouldn't fit -- it's less sherried than the 18yr, I think. This was, I believe, originally intended as a duty-free special, but it proved to be so popular that it became permanent. It got even got watered down to 40% briefly, but now we're back at 47.5%

Smoke is much more prominent even than in the 12yr, and then a wave of fruits and white chocolate. Not the fresh apple of the 12yr, but sweet cherries and peaches. (well, some apple, too.) Something floral, too: yes, heather, but also sweeter spring flowers. A nice minerality, but it's overwhelmed by the sweeter notes. The sherry flavors -- figs and dried fruits -- are here, and mix with the peat and the oak to make a dusty, greasy, oily (as in machine), meaty whole.

A little weak on the palate initially, but the smoke holds its together. Then wave after wave of sweetness -- orchard fruits, dried fruits, toffees -- balanced by some oaky bitterness. Very long.

Crazy good for a regularly-produced official bottling!

score: 90

Review #35: Highland Park 12yr, OB, 43%

this is the 12yr.

here is a picture that I found really helpful:

it is from The Malt Desk, here. (That whole post is good.) As you can see, the 12yr has only 15-20% of first fill sherry casks in the mix. I believe it is also 3 yrs younger than the 15yr and 4 yrs younger than the 16yy (which doesn't even exist, but if it did, it would be 4yrs older, more or less.)



really nice, room-filling nose: apples, typical heathery peat, minerals, and sweet sherry fruit (prunes and baked pears). a little rubberiness, but no big deal.

sweet but a little watery on the palate, and the rubber comes to the front. it holds up pretty well, but there's not a whole lot going on.

the finish is better, with candied fruit and nice heathery smoke. not super long.

really well-made dram that knows what it is and does it well. at a higher strength and without the recent price increases, it would be quite lovable.

score: 82

Review #9: Lagavulin 16 yr, 43%, OB

it's probably just me.

My general impression is that Lagavulin has been on a steady downward trajectory for a couple decades now -- as long as I can remember. (I remember being amazed -- just amazed -- the first time I tried it. It seemed to me, after having managed to buy bottles of Laphroaig and Macallan, to be the whisky that had everything.)  Anyway, perceptions of decline might say more about me than about it (even though I know I'm right), and Lagavulin on a bad day isn't so bad.

Nose is still good: medicinal (mercurochrome) peat and wisps of ashy smoke, pain grille', salt spray -- fishy salt spray, orange zest, and something floral and sweet at the end. Is it marzipan or fringe tree? I don't think the glencairn is treating me right on this one -- I should have grabbed a different glass. There's something like barbecue smoke, but sour -- so sauerbraten, I guess -- if you sneak up on it. I don't remember that one from the past. My overall impression, compared to the imaginary Laga of my memory, is that this one is more austere and less intense.

Palate is nicely balanced between ashy, sweet, and oily, and it finishes nicely on more ashes -- charcoaol, cigarette, whatever -- and orange candy. It's pleasant, but it really doesn't leave a strong impression. Ashes and orange candy, with some phenolic prickle. It almost reminds me of Ardbeg and Caol Ila as much as it seems to be something itself. Maybe everything else has just caught up, but I wish it were a little more distinctive or aggressive or something.

So still very nice for a standard bottling, but I'd rather have the paradigmatic Laga of my memory, if only I could drink that.

score: 84