Review #36: Highland Park 21yr, OB, 47.5%

smokier!

This is the 21yr old, which doesn't appear on the great ladder of sherryvats from other day. It wouldn't fit -- it's less sherried than the 18yr, I think. This was, I believe, originally intended as a duty-free special, but it proved to be so popular that it became permanent. It got even got watered down to 40% briefly, but now we're back at 47.5%

Smoke is much more prominent even than in the 12yr, and then a wave of fruits and white chocolate. Not the fresh apple of the 12yr, but sweet cherries and peaches. (well, some apple, too.) Something floral, too: yes, heather, but also sweeter spring flowers. A nice minerality, but it's overwhelmed by the sweeter notes. The sherry flavors -- figs and dried fruits -- are here, and mix with the peat and the oak to make a dusty, greasy, oily (as in machine), meaty whole.

A little weak on the palate initially, but the smoke holds its together. Then wave after wave of sweetness -- orchard fruits, dried fruits, toffees -- balanced by some oaky bitterness. Very long.

Crazy good for a regularly-produced official bottling!

score: 90