Review #80: Images of Islay "Kildalton Cross," Malts of Scotland, 53.2%, 195 bottles

out of practice

I've been sidelined with a cold, but I think everything tastes normal again. It probably isn't a good idea to start with something mysterious, but here is something from Malts of Scotland's "Images" series. This one must be an Ardbeg, unless it isn't. That would make it my only indy Ardbeg, unless it's not. It's NAS.

A big whiff of salted butter and toffee, and then the blast of dark smoky peat. It does smell like young Ardbeg -- somehow green and spirity, but then tarry and really really briny peat. Not particularly medicinal. The faintest traces of grapefruit and oysters and some linseed oil and wet wool. Sterno.

Palate is salty and tarry and surprisingly hot -- this is young. Finish is extremely long and ashy. Some sweetness comes through, but then gets confused and leaves because it feels like a coal fire has been put out on my tongue. Charred wet dog at the end. A terrier if I had to guess.


There have been bunches of really young peat monsters out recently. This is one of them, but not one of the most successful. It's good, but neither balanced nor outrageously bold. Mostly coal-fired dog.


score: 83

Review #44: Ardbeg 'Corryvreckan', 57.1%, L11 157 11:31 6ML

it's cold outside!

for some reason, peat seems especially suited for this awful weather. it's not just an affinity of peat smoke and warm feelings, either. I had some Corryvreckan this summer and it was just flat: it tasted like sweet cream butter on burnt toast, with a maybe a little anchovy. now that the ambient temperature has collapsed, it's regained its form.

Corryvreckan is their best bottling right now. I guess its gimmick is: no age statement but 10yrs old, lots of new French oak, and high proof but consistently at 57.1%. It has, I think, the richest, tarriest peat -- it doesn't have Laphroaig's iodine or Bowmore's fruity/smokiness, but it's powerful stuff and it interacts in an interesting way with the sweet oak. (The sweetness in itself is a little odd, but seems to be engaged in combat with the peat.) Anyway, notes ...

Nose: tarry rope, camphor, herring, and laver. Dark sooty smoke. Some astringent notes and dried flowers. Wet clay, oyster liquor cotton candy, black pepper, bread baked with molasses. Develops well and very expressive for such a high proof.

Palate: toasty, briny, peppery, phenolic, sweet. seaweed candy, if there were such a thing. a smoldering wool sweater doused in seawater, but curiously rounded.

Finish: extremely long. Creamy vanilla ashy candy.

I sometimes forget how much I like this one, but then I drink some more.

score: 89