Review #9: Lagavulin 16 yr, 43%, OB

it's probably just me.

My general impression is that Lagavulin has been on a steady downward trajectory for a couple decades now -- as long as I can remember. (I remember being amazed -- just amazed -- the first time I tried it. It seemed to me, after having managed to buy bottles of Laphroaig and Macallan, to be the whisky that had everything.)  Anyway, perceptions of decline might say more about me than about it (even though I know I'm right), and Lagavulin on a bad day isn't so bad.

Nose is still good: medicinal (mercurochrome) peat and wisps of ashy smoke, pain grille', salt spray -- fishy salt spray, orange zest, and something floral and sweet at the end. Is it marzipan or fringe tree? I don't think the glencairn is treating me right on this one -- I should have grabbed a different glass. There's something like barbecue smoke, but sour -- so sauerbraten, I guess -- if you sneak up on it. I don't remember that one from the past. My overall impression, compared to the imaginary Laga of my memory, is that this one is more austere and less intense.

Palate is nicely balanced between ashy, sweet, and oily, and it finishes nicely on more ashes -- charcoaol, cigarette, whatever -- and orange candy. It's pleasant, but it really doesn't leave a strong impression. Ashes and orange candy, with some phenolic prickle. It almost reminds me of Ardbeg and Caol Ila as much as it seems to be something itself. Maybe everything else has just caught up, but I wish it were a little more distinctive or aggressive or something.

So still very nice for a standard bottling, but I'd rather have the paradigmatic Laga of my memory, if only I could drink that.

score: 84